Beppu, Japan 2005

Torii Gate - ACEO watercolor pencil on paper by Audrey Breed.
Torii Gate, Hells of Beppu

Beppu is located on Kyushu’s northeast coast. The city has a population of about 130,000. It is one of the world’s most geothermally active regions. Each day millions of gallons of near boiling water gush out of springs and are harnessed by resorts and pools. Beppu is one of Japan’s most popular onsen (hot springs) resorts.

Beppu Japan Geothermal Steam
Beppu Japan Geothermal Steam

We rode the Shinkansen, Nozomi 11 from Tokyo and connected with the Sonic 29 to get to Beppu. The Sonic Limited Express was a very colorful and comfortable train (although nothing can compare with the Nozomi). Food for sale is offered on carts pushed through the cars by attendants. The attendants will bow as they enter and leave the car.

On the Sonic we had a beautiful and graceful attendant who would bow as a stalk bending in a gentle breeze.


In Beppu we stayed at a ryokan called Miyukiya, an old fashioned Japanese style inn with traditional atmosphere and appearance. It is easily accessed from the Beppu train station by the #10 & 20 buses (¥ 240).


Ryokan Customs

You take off your shoes at the entry of the ryokan and put on a pair of slippers which you wear until you reach the entry area of your room. There you remove them before you step on the tatami mats. Before entering the bathroom you put on a pair of slippers worn only there.

Hot green tea was always available in our room.

The hospitality at Miyukiya made it a memorable stop on our travels. Our gracious hosts are shown below. They spoke about as much English as we spoke Japanese, but we managed to communicate quite well.

After dinner we would enjoy a traditional Japanese bath and a soak in Miyukiya’s geothermally heated pond.

Hells of Beppu

Our ryokan was just a 10 minute walk (moving very slowly) from 7 of the 9 jigoku or hells. These are areas that spew sulphurous mud and form steaming lakes of various hues. For ¥ 2000 you can buy a ticket that gives entry to 9 of the jigoku. Each has something different. In some the main attraction is animals in hell. While not a fan of crocodiles, hell #5, Oniyama-Jigoku was hell to see. Like too many zoos and factory farms, animals spend their unbearable lives in overcrowded concrete cells.

Beppu Utamaro Gallery

Beppu Utamaro Gallery

Among its many attractions Beppu is home to the Beppu Utamaro Gallery or sex museum. They have many examples of ukiyo-e and ancient sculpture. Unfortunately for us, due to it all being in kanji we don’t know just how ancient.

Antique Phallus Beppu Japan
Antique wood phallus

The museum is tended by two mild mannered old ladies offering a case full of dildos, costume uniforms and naughty videos for sale.


  1. Japan is one of my favorite places to visit. Though I’ve been there several times, I yet have to stay in ryokan and try an onsen. The thought of a steaming hot bath is something I have to get accustomed to 🙂 The meal in this picture, by the way, looks SO good!


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